musical subway.

I love a good bargain. And I love it even more when I feel like I worked for it. Such was today's journey to the Pearl Market (a five-floor emporium of pearls and pearl-related treasures). After a hot hot hot subway trip... walking several blocks in the wrong direction... a popsicle to cure the fact that we walked so far out of the way... a man in a rickshaw yelling "Hey, let's go!" to Lauren and I... and (as always) coming inches away from death trying to cross huge streets... we made it.

We pulled up our stools to one of the stalls and began to work our magic. Bargaining is an art, a science and sometimes just luck. Row upon row of pearls and other stone and shell jewelry is overwhelming enough... but to have four ladies trying to haggle you in every way they can is madness. The key is to remain calm, polite and always always have a bottom line budget for yourself.

After biting just about every strand (all real, btw), I walked away with four various pearl necklaces, and five miscellaneous pairs of shell and turquoise jewelry for about 50 USD. I'd say I did well. (Note: those of you who may receive any of these items as gifts from my trip, please understand that the love is not in how much I paid, but rather, how savvy I was at bargaining.)

With such a great start at the Pearl Market under our belts, we headed to a really cool Hutong (street) with tons of shops, bars and cute little restaurants. Lauren got a 40 minute massage for about 6 USD while I poked around in every shop up and down the street. I didn't score any more bargains, but saw lots of fun things. It is important to note that this entire time I am sweating my life away and look homeless. Who would want to bargain with me, I have no idea.

I think the best part of our day, however, was the little game we began to play on the subway. One stop that we need to make is the first stop on the line, which means an empty train pulls up to the platform. In order to understand the competitive atmosphere of public transit, picture small lanes that people line up in, three men/women across. As soon as the train pulls up and the doors open, chaos breaks out as people from all doors rush in to try and snag a coveted seat.

We decide that we're going to play for keeps. We devise a plan and put it into action.

I am in the second row, middle man of the line-up. Decent position. Lauren is right behind me, with a hand on my shoulder. Train arrives... doors open... and they're off! I fake left, spin right, glance at my options on both sides of the train and slide home into a two-seat opening... I look left, waiting for Lauren to slide into the vacancy... and it's already too late... she's gone! Seconds later she surfaces laughing as I grin from my seat that is now surrounded by angry standers. She went left upon entering the train... an area that has no seats... common beginners' mishap.

This ballet of musical subway seats is the craziest, most competitive action I've ever seen on public transportation. I must say I am proud of my ability to prevail at musical subway, even in the hot rush hour of a Friday afternoon. For me, it wasn't about the seat. It was about the win.

We celebrated with another popsicle on the way home. Just another successful day in the life of a Beijing risk-taker.